Namesake

There are many things here in Salvador that bear American (or English) names: there is an Auto Center, a Jump gym, a Jet Set Dining Club....there is also my first English student, Jorge Washington. I kid you not. He's much younger and cuter than his namesake, however.

Road Rage

Road rage is alive and well here in Salvador. I don't know where all of these people in their little stick shift cars with all of the traffic lights and speed bumps think they are going is such a mad hurry. People are cheerful and happy out of their cars maybe...but behind the wheel is a different scenario. We're going car shopping this weekend, wish us luck as we venture out with the ragers.....!!!

Cozido

Two posts in one day. Motivated by my lunch---I am still thinking about it. We had cozido, a Brazilian dish that *I think* is a traditional Portuguese dish. I am taking a guess as I first had it at a very traditional hole-in-the-wall Portuguese restaurant here in Salvador. Why the love? I will start with vegetables. Scumptioulicious pumpkin, cabbage, carrots, sweet potato, regular potato, some other brazilian vegetables I know not how to spell the names of and...bananas! They are all sort of stewed up with some nice seasoning and meat, served with a spicy pico de gallo style sauce. Come to Salvador...eat cozido....come to salvador...eat cozido...yum.

Jazz at the MAM

B and I went out to "Jazz no MAM" on Saturday at the Museum of Modern Art, it was great. It takes place in the courtyard on the lower left-hand corner of the picture. The rest of the complex is a museum, cinema and cafe. Enjoyed the sunset, music and a crepe-on-stick, (sort of like a hot-dog-on-a-stick but yummier in my estimation). This is a weekly event, we'll be going back for more. er, music. and crepes.

I've been listening to...

Vanessa da Mata. Beautiful music, this is a collaboration with Ben Harper:

Caminho das Indias

People, I'm hooked. The telenovela has cast its cheese-ridden spell and I have been sucked in. Caminho das Indias is the prime-time telenovela in Brazil, broadcast six nights per week. It runs one full hour--except for Wednesdays, when it ends early due to the broadcast of national soccer games. It is set partially in Rio, partially in India. Each night at 9pm, televisions across Brazil are glowing white-brite with Caminho das Indias. My television included.

Street food 101

Acaraje: a fried ball of black eyed pea mush fried in dende oil. Synonym: gut bomb that I like and hate all at once. We went down to eat Acaraje (Ah-kah-ruh-ZHAY) at a popular spot in town, in the neighborhood of Rio Vermelho. There are 2 acaraje stands there---Acaraje de Dinha, the most famous, and Acaraje de Regina, seemingly more revered by locals. I think the locals may be swayed by the fact that Regina has a small T.V. behind her stand that is tuned in to the telenovelas. So, you can get your acaraje on and keep up with the latest telenovela in one grand evening. Although, to be honest, I would not recommend eating acaraje in the evening--I learned that the hard way. It is "heavy food" as many people here have told me. I like it. I don't love it---though many people seem to--but when in Bahia, you have to try it. It is kind of like a giant falafel ball stuffed with shrimp and vatapa (vah-tah-PAH), a thick sauce made with shrimp, nuts...you'll have to ask Regina. Or Dinha.... and can be served with a spicy sauce that resembles salsa. I do appreciate the spice as Brazilian food in general does not have much of that. So, when you visit, bring your Pepto-Bismol and we'll head on down to visit Regina. You cannot visit Bahia without trying acaraje.