Iemanja

Looking back at my blog and the Lavagem do Bonfim, I was reminded of another summer festival unique to Salvador. In early February--before Carnival--my friend Daryl and I ventured out to see the festival of Iemanja (Yay-mahn-JAH). This festival commemorates the Candomble goddess Iemanja , who is the "mother" goddess of the Candomble orixas (AW-ree-shaws), or saints, and therefore the most revered. She is also the goddess of the sea and is identified by her blue and white dress. She is often pictured holding mirrors to indicate her vanity. During the festival, people offer objects of vanity to the sea to ask for blessings. Mirrors, flowers, perfume, combs, and soaps are among these offerings that are either tossed into the waves--usually the flowers--or taken in baskets to the temple of Iemanja where they are later sent out to sea. Some people hire local fisherman to take them out so they can make their own offerings, or they construct small boats to float out to sea. (One must suspend all judgement of environmental pollution to appreciate the celebration, though the local paper did have a humorous comic the next day of the goddess wading out of the water and coughing up loads of crap onto the beach...) On the beach in Rio Vermelho, near the temple of Iemanja, a variety of Candomble ceremonies are held on both the eve and the day of her commemoration. We arrived at around 8:30a.m. to find offerings, drumming, ceremonies, and celebrations in full swing--surely lasting late into the day and night.

'Splainin to do

How does one explain months of blogging absence? Allow me to contruct a picture story for you, it goes something like this:


February:


(yep, that would be a positive pregnancy test)

and Carnival! (unfortunately carnival + pregnant lady=lame party for me)

March-April-May










That would be a coast-coast-coast trip to the U.S., and some traveling and working in between. Whirlwind!

June-July

Back in Salvador, pregnant baby bump and baby items in tow, finding a (nother) place to live, getting settled....happy to say that's all taken care of now and life is calming down, for now. Baby is due is just a few weeks! More tales and details to follow...

Lavagem do Bonfim

I cannot explain all of the history, but I can describe the 8k pilgrimage to the Bonfim Church in Salvador. More than 500 Baiana women, adorned in their traditional white dresses and beads, carried large vases of flowers to the church. They were accompanied by festive bands and trailed by crowds of people drinking and dancing in the streets. Along the way, I received a "blessing" from one of the Baiana women, who poured a few drops of water from her vase on my head. Once the women arrived at the church, they worked their way through crowds of people to arrive at the front steps and ceremonially wash them with the water from their vases. These are some photos of the Baiana women and procession:




This was followed by a brief address from the father of the church, the release of a white dove and balloons and everyone joining in song and prayer.


Throughout the day people tied Bonfim ribbons on the gates and doors of the church to signify a prayer. This church has long been the site of pilgrimages and prayers, specifically for healing.



This one was for you, Ry!


The pilgrimage was followed up by parties and music late into the night. I lasted until about 9pm and gratefully arrived home to a nice shower and comfy bed. My feet were sore but my heart was happy.

Reveillon

Parties and concerts, people adorned in white clothing, fireworks, music, dancing, eating, drinking, drinking, drinking (I couldnt help it, there was a fresh fruit caipiroska bar and i was obliged to try various fruits) sunrise swim in the ocean....that summarizes my first new year's in Salvador. It was really, really lovely. Feliz Ano Novo--Happy New Year! Much love, health and happiness in 2010.

Talking to myself

You know when your internal monologue escapes your lips? I was driving along in traffic the other day when I started to tune into that monologue, it went something like this:

no really, it is the pedal on the right.
signal, please? no really, signal.
the middle is not a lane.
the shoulder is not a lane.
um, this is one way....?
wow. (as a motorcyclist cuts her way through traffic wearing flip-flops, shorts and a tank top)
no. no. no. no. no. (actually nao, nao, nao, nao in response to the people selling things at traffic lights--everything from fruit to kitchen towels to kids floatie pool toys)
oh. my. god.
who is honking????!

and that was pretty much all in just one outing to do some grocery shopping. this driving commentary could become a recreational past-time for me. i really believe that if you can drive here you can drive anywhere....

Rio 2016

Correction: CIDADE GANHADORA!!