Lavagem do Bonfim

I cannot explain all of the history, but I can describe the 8k pilgrimage to the Bonfim Church in Salvador. More than 500 Baiana women, adorned in their traditional white dresses and beads, carried large vases of flowers to the church. They were accompanied by festive bands and trailed by crowds of people drinking and dancing in the streets. Along the way, I received a "blessing" from one of the Baiana women, who poured a few drops of water from her vase on my head. Once the women arrived at the church, they worked their way through crowds of people to arrive at the front steps and ceremonially wash them with the water from their vases. These are some photos of the Baiana women and procession:




This was followed by a brief address from the father of the church, the release of a white dove and balloons and everyone joining in song and prayer.


Throughout the day people tied Bonfim ribbons on the gates and doors of the church to signify a prayer. This church has long been the site of pilgrimages and prayers, specifically for healing.



This one was for you, Ry!


The pilgrimage was followed up by parties and music late into the night. I lasted until about 9pm and gratefully arrived home to a nice shower and comfy bed. My feet were sore but my heart was happy.

Reveillon

Parties and concerts, people adorned in white clothing, fireworks, music, dancing, eating, drinking, drinking, drinking (I couldnt help it, there was a fresh fruit caipiroska bar and i was obliged to try various fruits) sunrise swim in the ocean....that summarizes my first new year's in Salvador. It was really, really lovely. Feliz Ano Novo--Happy New Year! Much love, health and happiness in 2010.

Talking to myself

You know when your internal monologue escapes your lips? I was driving along in traffic the other day when I started to tune into that monologue, it went something like this:

no really, it is the pedal on the right.
signal, please? no really, signal.
the middle is not a lane.
the shoulder is not a lane.
um, this is one way....?
wow. (as a motorcyclist cuts her way through traffic wearing flip-flops, shorts and a tank top)
no. no. no. no. no. (actually nao, nao, nao, nao in response to the people selling things at traffic lights--everything from fruit to kitchen towels to kids floatie pool toys)
oh. my. god.
who is honking????!

and that was pretty much all in just one outing to do some grocery shopping. this driving commentary could become a recreational past-time for me. i really believe that if you can drive here you can drive anywhere....

Rio 2016

Correction: CIDADE GANHADORA!!

Uma Bomba, indeed

This was on the news Friday--a fireworks store in southern Brazil exploded and killed 11 people! Yikes. I am back on my anti-fireworks soap box.
http://terratv.terra.com.br/especiais/noticias/4416-249140/veja-como-ficou-rua-onde-loja-de-fogos-explodiu.htm

Caruru de Cosme e Damiao

On September 27, many Brazilians celebrate the saints Cosme (Cosmas) and Damiao (Damian) who were regarded as protectors of children. This is a religious holiday--both Catholic and that of Cadomble (Afro-Brazilian religion). In Bahia, people commemorate the day by preparing a caruru, a traditional Afro-Brazilian dish, and sharing it with poor children in the community. We went to a "caruru" today at the home of a family friend. When we arrived, there were about 7 boys who had been invited from one of the nearby favelas (poor neighborhoods) for the holiday. They were sitting around a table on the patio, eating their plates of caruru, accompanied by other typical Bahian foods. It kind of looked like this:


Caruru is a dish made of okra and shrimp, served with rice and chicken. It is accompanied by acaraje and vatapa, which I wrote about in an earlier blog. These are Afro-Brazilian foods specific to the northeastern part of Brazil.

After the kids ate, they left and we had our own plates of caruru. B and I sat outside on the veranda where we could see the streets below. Not all kids get invited to people´s homes....some just hang out in the neighborhoods and wait for people to stop. We watched as cars pulled up to groups of women and children walking along the streets or sitting on benches...the people in the cars either handed bags of food out the window or opened their trunks from which they gave out food. Once the kids all had a bag of food, the people drove away. It kind of felt like Halloween in reverse--without the costumes, and caruru instead of candy. Apparently for all of the food sharing there is something to do with giving thanks for wishes come true or hoping that wishes come true...not quite clear on that...but was a really interesting tradition to take part in. P.S. I am not a big fan of caruru, but it is definitely a must-try in Bahia.